I suspect the answer is quite a bit. Luckily radon mitigation systems are quite affordable although the cost will vary based on your situation. You might even be able to use your health savings account to pay for radon mitigation.
Many governments are beginning to invest in radon mitigation including Kentucky , Colorado , Minnesota , Nebraska , and the Federal Government itself. Avoiding mitigation could cost you far more in the long term.
There are several different types of radon mitigation systems designed for the various different types of foundations Basement, Slab-On-Grade, Crawl Space and customized to your home. Many of these systems can further be subdivided into passive and active versions. In these cases, we would almost always recommend the active version. Most radon mitigation systems are fairly self-sufficient, but like furnaces and chimneys they will need occasional maintenance.
Most systems use warning devices to warn you when they aren't working effectively so make sure to check on your system from time to time in order to make sure it's still working properly. Most radon mitigation systems use fans and these fans will generally need to be repaired or replaced every five years or so.
Remember, the system will not work properly without the fan. Sometimes weather can also cause problems like ice jams. Energy recovery ventilation systems ERV also require some maintenance and periodic cleaning. Frequently Asked Questions. What is radon? Learn more about radon levels: Is there a safe level of radon? Am I still at risk if my radon levels are below 4.
Can radon levels in our home change without intervention? How can I get rid of radon? Learn how radon mitigation works: How does professional radon mitigation work? Why do I need to reduce radon? Can caulking and sealing reduce radon? Can I open windows or run a window fan to reduce radon? How can I reduce the risk of radon in new home construction? Do passive radon systems work? How much does it cost to get rid of radon?
Does radon really present a health problem? Learn about radon and cancer: Is radon a hoax? Does radon cause cancer? What is radon poisoning?
If the radon mitigation system that was installed in your home failed or stopped working properly, it can have several big consequences:. There are several important steps you need to take to address elevated levels of radon gas in your home. Remember, this is a dangerous health hazard, so you want to perform this testing as soon as possible.
The EPA notes that there are two types of tests, long-term and short term. Although long-term testing will provide more accurate seasonal averages of radon gas, your main concern at this point is to confirm its presence at all.
A short-term test, which can take as little as two days in this case, would be a wise idea. If result confirmation is needed, a second short-term test can be used. If the radon levels remain high after repeated testing, you should take time to check the work performed by your contractor. The EPA notes that there is a list of important radon removal standards that contractors must meet when installing reduction systems.
The EPA explains that you should also get a follow-up radon measurement from an independent company, not the one that did the original installation. Doing so will help eliminate the potential for a conflict of interest to develop that causes the results to be skewed. According to the EPA, you can also gauge the system's effectiveness with a two-to-seven-day measurement.
Sub-slab depressurization is the most common and usually the best method for reducing radon. In this system, one or more suction pipes pass through the slab into the crushed rock or soil underneath. The pipes also may be put below the concrete slab from outside the house. A radon vent fan connected to the suction pipe draws the radon gas from below the house and releases it into the outdoor air.
See the diagram for an example of a sub-slab depressurization system. If your home has a crawlspace, the mitigation method will depend on the type of floor, how accessible it is, and whether the space is large enough to work in.
If the crawlspace has a concrete floor, the preferred mitigation technique is sub-slab suction. If it has an earth floor, the preferred mitigation technique is sub-membrane suction. With sub-membrane depressurization, the floor is covered with a thick plastic sheet sealed to the crawlspace walls, foundation piers and any penetrations of the membrane.
A radon system fan and piping system then draws the radon from under the membrane and vents it outdoors. Homes with water control systems such as sump pumps, French drains, or an exterior loop of buried water-collection pipe can be effectively mitigated by connecting the active soil depressurization system to the existing water control system.
As part of installing a mitigation system, cracks and other openings in walls and floors in contact with the ground are sealed. Sealing does two things, it limits the flow of radon into your home and it reduces the loss of conditioned air, thereby making other radon reduction techniques more effective and cost-efficient.
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